Listings for Bullet Molds

VINTAGE BULLET RELOADING MOLD MOULD UNMARKED RELOAD
VINTAGE BULLET RELOADING MOLD MOULD UNMARKED RELOAD
   $14.50
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RCBS .44-40 - 200 Grain Flat Nose Bullet Mold
RCBS .44-40 - 200 Grain Flat Nose Bullet Mold
   $32.65
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LEE 2 Cavity Mold TL356-124-2R 9mm 124 grain Bullet With Free Handles #90464
LEE 2 Cavity Mold TL356-124-2R 9mm 124 grain Bullet With Free Handles #90464
   $19.99
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LEAD INGOT bar bullet casting reloading sinkers SOFT Lead --  25 LB  --
LEAD INGOT bar bullet casting reloading sinkers SOFT Lead -- 25 LB --
   $37.95
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SAECO, Double Cavity Bullet Mould, 45 Caliber, 225 gr. WC (p)
SAECO, Double Cavity Bullet Mould, 45 Caliber, 225 gr. WC (p)
   $89.95
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 Vintage reloading tools shotgun & 38 cal. bullet mould single cavity Lyman
Vintage reloading tools shotgun & 38 cal. bullet mould single cavity Lyman
   $19.50
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100+ lbs Lead ingots for bullet casting, sinkers
100+ lbs Lead ingots for bullet casting, sinkers
   $125.00
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Hilt 50 Caliber Cal. ML-50-CAL-5 Bullet Mold Reloading - Used
Hilt 50 Caliber Cal. ML-50-CAL-5 Bullet Mold Reloading - Used
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90382 Lee Double Cavity Black Powder 44 Cal Rem Bullet Mold 450-200-1R
90382 Lee Double Cavity Black Powder 44 Cal Rem Bullet Mold 450-200-1R
   $24.90
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20+ Pounds Pure Soft Lead Sheet - Sinker, Bullets, Molds, Reloading, etc
20+ Pounds Pure Soft Lead Sheet - Sinker, Bullets, Molds, Reloading, etc
   $30.00
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Saeco Redding 4 cavity .45 bullet mold, 255 Grain
Saeco Redding 4 cavity .45 bullet mold, 255 Grain
   $55.88
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VINTAGE LYMAN 45 CALIBER SINGLE CAVITY BULLET MOULD MOLD METAL LEAD BLOCK RIFLE
VINTAGE LYMAN 45 CALIBER SINGLE CAVITY BULLET MOULD MOLD METAL LEAD BLOCK RIFLE
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Lee TL 356-124-TC Six Cavity Bullet Mold 9mm Luger
Lee TL 356-124-TC Six Cavity Bullet Mold 9mm Luger
   $39.95
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5 Cavity Bullet Mold - Arsenal Bullet Molds (358429 170gr SWC Keith)
5 Cavity Bullet Mold - Arsenal Bullet Molds (358429 170gr SWC Keith)
   $80.00
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20 + Lbs pounds Spacers Lead Foundry Type, Casting, Reload, sinkers, bullets.
20 + Lbs pounds Spacers Lead Foundry Type, Casting, Reload, sinkers, bullets.
   $39.99
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Lead Bars Disk for Sinkers Ammo Bullets Casting in Molds
Lead Bars Disk for Sinkers Ammo Bullets Casting in Molds
   $39.95
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LEE .451 Round Ball Lead Bullet Mold DOUBLE CAVITY Lightly Used - With Box
LEE .451 Round Ball Lead Bullet Mold DOUBLE CAVITY Lightly Used - With Box
   $22.00
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LEE DOUBLE CAVITY BULLET MOLD 459-500-3R (90577) NIB
LEE DOUBLE CAVITY BULLET MOLD 459-500-3R (90577) NIB
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LEE 90358 * 2-CAVITY BULLET MOLD 452-255-RF * .452 DIAMETER / 255 GRAIN
LEE 90358 * 2-CAVITY BULLET MOLD 452-255-RF * .452 DIAMETER / 255 GRAIN
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SCAP LEAD SOFT SHEET  7LBS CASTING SINKERS OR BULLETS
SCAP LEAD SOFT SHEET 7LBS CASTING SINKERS OR BULLETS
   $17.50
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30+ lbs Lead ingots for bullet casting, sinkers
30+ lbs Lead ingots for bullet casting, sinkers
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Related Bullet Molds information

IMR 4350 for .308 ??

*pscgraz said: I have a couple of half pounds of IMR 4350 that have been in the powder magazine for probably 30 years. Time to houseclean. Anybody had good results with IMR 4350 in 308/762 with 150 grain bullets?

Fr*cture said: I would say it's too slow, especially for 150's. Hodgdon doesn't list any IMR4350 loads for a 308, of any bullet weight.

t*gger said: I have not tried it, but sierra states 45.8/2500fps, 47.2 2600 fps with any of their 150 gr, hope this helps, does not look optimum. Shows better results with heavier bullets. Not shown as the recommended hunting or accuracy load for any weight. Hope this helps!! Just happened to have the manual on the coffee table

m*ynard said: If your powder it 30 years old, I would just dump it.

3m*cs1 said: If your powder it 30 years old, I would just dump it. WHY. If stored properly it is fine. I have 30 plus year old red dot we are still using up and it works just like it did when we bought the flat of 12 pounders for 49.00 each.:(

Spl*tter said: If your powder it 30 years old, I would just dump it. My Dad is still using H4831 that was purchased directly from Bruce Hodgdon in the early 60's, and it still gives fine accuracy in 7mmRemMag and .243. And remember, even when it was "new" the powder was surplus from pulled-down 20mm Oerlikon ammo, so this powder could be anywhere from 60-to-80 years old.

k*ith mokry said: I tried it with 165g and 180 and found that the 180 travelled as fast as the 165. I believe that the load was 48.5g and the manual said the max was 50g. There was no way that I could get 50g into the case. Velocity was 2550fps with a 18.5 tube.

B*omer said: You'll find that 4350 will push a 150 gr bullet 100-150 fps slower than an optimum powder. This doesn't matter much if it shoots straight and provides you with an inexpensive option. But I would sooner use it for bullet weights of 165 grs or heavier.

*pscgraz said: I see there are a few loads listed in some of the manuals. Thanks to all for their input. FWIW Nitrocellulose powder should be dumped when it starts to smell acidic or you see rust forming on the lid. This stuff has been stored cool and constant for a long time and I have no apprehension about using it for range loads.

m*ynard said: I see there are a few loads listed in some of the manuals. Thanks to all for their input. FWIW Nitrocellulose powder should be dumped when it starts to smell acidic or you see rust forming on the lid. This stuff has been stored cool and constant for a long time and I have no apprehension about using it for range loads. Friend of mine tried the same thing with some old powder that wasn't 30 years old. The powder was IMR 3031. He used the same load he has been using for several years, only difference was a can of older powder. Rifle worked fine then during a match he got a sticky bolt handle. Fired another round, same thing. Fired the thrid round and the bolt locked up solid. Then the bolt handle broke off. The only way to get the bolt open was by pulling the barrel. Of course this isn't something that can be do at the range during a competition, 350 km from home. The load in question was a hot load but had never been over pressure. All charges were weighed, however the powder may have been a little on the dry side which then turned a hot load into a very hot load. The rifle was a 4 lug custom bolt action. For the sake of a couple 1/2 lbs of powder, I would just dump it. But hey, who am I to tell you what to load into your own gun. It's your gun and your face that is inches from the chamber when you squeeze that trigger. Your milage may vary.

3m*cs1 said: Friend of mine tried the same thing with some old powder that wasn't 30 years old. The powder was IMR 3031. He used the same load he has been using for several years, only difference was a can of older powder. Rifle worked fine then during a match he got a sticky bolt handle. Fired another round, same thing. Fired the thrid round and the bolt locked up solid. Then the bolt handle broke off. The only way to get the bolt open was by pulling the barrel. Of course this isn't something that can be do at the range during a competition, 350 km from home. The load in question was a hot load but had never been over pressure. All charges were weighed, however the powder may have been a little on the dry side which then turned a hot load into a very hot load. The rifle was a 4 lug custom bolt action. For the sake of a couple 1/2 lbs of powder, I would just dump it. But hey, who am I to tell you what to load into your own gun. It's your gun and your face that is inches from the chamber when you squeeze that trigger. Your milage may vary. Absolutely no proof your friend had his powder stored properly, or his reloads done correctly plus a custom build?? Any way Thnaks for your concern but I have 43 years of pulling reloading handles and doing just fine some years shooting 20-25,000 rounds yes 90% shotgun but still a lot of reloads..That is one hell of a lot of powder and since we always bought in large keg lots most is probally classed as old. In all those years there was one pound I tossed and that came in a package deal from another reloader.The smell of that powder as soon as I opened it was enough to toss it.To each their own

*agleye said: I am [and have in the past] using a powder that was phased out more than 40 years ago, and that still works just fine. Stored properly, and check carefully for any deterioration, if good, go for it! Eagleye.

R*ger No.1 said: I have used IMR 4350 with 165gr. and 180 grains. It worked OK but H 4895 worked MUCH better.

m*ynard said: Absolutely no proof your friend had his powder stored properly, or his reloads done correctly plus a custom build?? Any way Thnaks for your concern but I have 43 years of pulling reloading handles and doing just fine some years shooting 20-25,000 rounds yes 90% shotgun but still a lot of reloads..That is one hell of a lot of powder and since we always bought in large keg lots most is probally classed as old. In all those years there was one pound I tossed and that came in a package deal from another reloader.The smell of that powder as soon as I opened it was enough to toss it.To each their own Not trying to get into a pissing match here, just letting you know what I saw first hand. The shooter in question has about 10 more years of reloading experience than you have, so that isn't a problem. You seem to think the custom action is a problem? It is a Gaulin action single shot target rifle, it was not something cobbled together by a barnyard gunsmith.

3m*cs1 said: Not trying to get into a pissing match here, just letting you know what I saw first hand. The shooter in question has about 10 more years of reloading experience than you have, so that isn't a problem. You seem to think the custom action is a problem? It is a Gaulin action single shot target rifle, it was not something cobbled together by a barnyard gunsmith. No sir no pissing match just you have your opinion what should be done with old powder based on one undesirable occurance and I have mine based on 43 years of reloading experience using a lot of old powder but properly stored and taken care of. The last two months I have been reloading 12ga with a 12pound keg dated 1986.We bought a dozen at the time for 49.99 each and I have some left unopened.Wonder how many guys here would toss them because they are 25 years old. My friend is still using up a 20 pound keg of 3031 my dad bought some time in the 60's I think and he said he has never to this day had a problem with it Storage is the key. It is Ok for you and I not to agree. Take care http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h215/JoesCars/12.jpg

m*ynard said: Unopened cans/kegs of powder should not be a problem. How well your once opened can of powder is sealed after 25 years is another. Also the pressure of a .308 can be 5-8 times that of a 12 ga shotgun. If I really felt the need to finish off a couple 1/2 lbs cans of 25 year old powder I would start at the very bottom of the load data.

j*e-nwt said: I used up a can of this stuff year before last. Use your google skills to find out how old this powder was.;) http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v147/joe-nwt/furum/DSC01820.jpg?t=1241941427

*lexF said: Back to the original question: IMR4350 for 308 Win It seems that there are no problem at all and that it might be a work for 168gr bullet and heavier. Lyman has IMR450 load data for 165gr, 178gr, 180gr, 190gr bullets (high density loads) Nosler has IMR4350 load data for 165gr and 180gr bullets (high density loads). Sierra has IMR450 load data for 165gr, 168gr, 175gr, 180gr, 190gr bullets (high density loads) One important thing to remember, it is a very slow burning powder for 308 Win. http://kwk.us/powders.html It's a much better powder for 243 Win or 270 Win. Alex

cr*zydave said: I have a older manual that lists 4350 powder for a 308, 150 grain. lists some pretty hot loads from what i see here though min load- 49.0 gr- 2597 fps mid load- 51.0 gr- 2698 fps max load- 53.0 gr- 2792 fps Always start low and work up for you and your rifles sakes.

j*e-nwt said: You may or may not get max velocities, but 4350 has always given excellent accuracy in any cartridge I've used it in.

k*mlooky said: I would venture to guess that 53 grns of 4350 would most likely spill over the top? If not, it would sure be close. I am using this powder on the BLR81 358win I just recently purchased. 51 grns is almost up there. Good results with the Hornady 200 grain bullets.

cr*zydave said: I would venture to guess that 53 grns of 4350 would most likely spill over the top? If not, it would sure be close. I am using this powder on the BLR81358 win I just recently purchased. 51 grns is almost up there. Good results with the Hornady 200 grain bullets. Don't know whether it would or not, might be a compressed load. Info is from speer reloading manual #7

H*adDamage said: I'm likely going to try IMR4350 in my Ruger compact 308win but with 220gr Sierra RN Prohunters.

f*remachine69 said: From what I've gathered, 4350 is a dandy load for heavier bullets (behind 175's for me).

GM*on said: What about 7mm-08. I'm looking at relaoding that round for hunting next season. Will IMR4350 work well in that round? What grain/type of projectile? Thanks for your reply.

G*nderite said: Better in 7-08 than in 308. Use a heavy bullet to minimize meat damage and to make it an any-game size load. I load 41 gr under a 175 in 7-08.

GM*on said: Thanks Ganderite, that's a pretty healthy bullet. I wasn't sure if that grain weight would work off the 7mm-08. I pack a Savage Weather Warrior and I don't know if it would control the heavy bullet. I was looking at the Speers 145gr. BTSP? If it works for you I might load a few rounds and send them down range.

*OWM said: No sir no pissing match just you have your opinion what should be done with old powder based on one undesirable occurance and I have mine based on 43 years of reloading experience using a lot of old powder but properly stored and taken care of. The last two months I have been reloading 12ga with a 12pound keg dated 1986.We bought a dozen at the time for 49.99 each and I have some left unopened.Wonder how many guys here would toss them because they are 25 years old. My friend is still using up a 20 pound keg of 3031 my dad bought some time in the 60's I think and he said he has never to this day had a problem with it Storage is the key. It is Ok for you and I not to agree. Take care http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h215/JoesCars/12.jpg Sorry not much help with burning up your 4350 in the 308... I use up all of mine in 300wsw & 30-06. And I'm not even old enough to have been reloading 43years... even if I would have started at birth. But i do have 20 year old powder and am wondering how you qualify "properly stored" and also what you mean by an acidic smell? Is it like vinigar where it burns your sinuses eyes and teeth or is there some specific scent like hydrocloric acid or something else?

Spl*tter said: Yes, it's an acidic smell/sensation like warm vinegar (it's not acetic acid, so it's not exactly like vinegar; but sort of close). It's not a nice smell. It should have a light/sweet alcohol or solvent smell, and if there is any dust, it should be black, grey or silver dust. Redish dust is a bad sign, but make sure that it's not just a bit of rust from the interior of the cap or can.

3m*cs1 said: For me storage is in a vented cabnet in a area of the house that is temp controlled to a max of 60 and moisture controlled with an air exchanger. I keep all powders in their original containers and put extra Aluminium sealing tape over and around the caps. I try to get the powder I use into plastic containers vs metal and always wash out the plastic container I reuse prior to a new batch. For example. I will have a 12 lb metal keg of 700x which I took 4 pounds out and put into a 4lb plastic 700x jug which I transfer to a 1 pound 700x plastic jug for reloading.I also try to buy as many 1 pounders as I can get if they will sell for bulk or close to bulk pricing. That way I keep them sealed longer and if it goes bad chances I am tossing 1 pound vs 8. Oh yes room is always dark no sunlight at all

*OWM said: Thanks Guys.

*pscgraz said: Sorry not much help with burning up your 4350 in the 308... I use up all of mine in 300wsw & 30-06. And I'm not even old enough to have been reloading 43years... even if I would have started at birth. But i do have 20 year old powder and am wondering how you qualify "properly stored" and also what you mean by an acidic smell? Is it like vinigar where it burns your sinuses eyes and teeth or is there some specific scent like hydrocloric acid or something else? My gun room is in the basement and the temperature is always cool and more important, relatively constant temperature. Others have answered the question of smell, well. ;)I could always buy a rifle in another caliber...