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Lyman Turbo 3200 Tumbler
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Lyman Turbo 1200 Tumbler
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4 Lb Walnut/Corn Cob Tumbler Media -Dry Polish Treated- Polishing Tumbling Brass
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ceramic vibratory, vibrating, tumbling, tumbler, media, 4 pounds
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Lyman Case Tumbler
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Lyman 2500 Pro Magnum TURBO TUMBLER (Standard) ~ 2 Gallon Capacity ~ (BRAND NEW)
Lyman 2500 Pro Magnum TURBO TUMBLER (Standard) ~ 2 Gallon Capacity ~ (BRAND NEW)
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Frankford Arsenal Quick N EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit 645880 w/ Rotary Separator
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Eastwood 18LB Cleaning Polishing Heavy Duty Vibratory Tumbler and Media Kit
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Related Tumbler information

Brass Diagnosis

*valonthas said: Need some education on brass. I recently picked up a Smith and Wesson Hand Ejector in 38S&W (not 38 special). Did a deal with a good friend to get some 38 S&W blanks. To see the firearm see my original thread; Finally have the opportunity to take her out and fire these blanks off. It was actually quite fun, as I have never show a revolver let alone a blank cartridge before. I have not fired any real ammunition yet (just picked some up today) so not sure how live firing is -- but when firing the blanks the muzzle blast was huge, it was quite awesome just for that alone! Anyways, so I noticed the brass was not holding up to well, perhaps there was a heavy charge in the blanks, can't really say as they were from many years ago. Based on my reading I understand the caliber is of a weaker choice then other available cartridges so i didn't expect this kind of brass oddities. All brass was Dominion, but I am unaware if they were reloaded or factory - prior to firing the majority of them looked near mint factory clean but I can't be certain. As I have no reloading experience other then from what I have read, and the fact 38SW, Revolvers, and Blanks are ALL new to me, looking for a bit of education more specifically; 1) Does brass weaken over time (sitting on a shelf) 2) What was made stronger, brass of yesteryear or modern day brass and your comments on 3) The case cracks (picture 1). I am assuming weak brass or heavy load 4) Case bulging (picture 2), and the "wrinkles" in the brass. You will also see bulging, which I see in other calibers like 9mm in my glock. Would the wrinkles be of concern preventing further reloading, or should they be shot until they begin to crack / deform in major way 5) Case swirls (picture 3). This appeared on some of the brass, but majority of it was unaffected, thus I pose the question if these swirls indicate anything specific. They were not there to start as I inspected all 50 pieces prior 6) S,all marks (picture 4). These appears on many casings. They are all uniformly an L shape or a flat horizontal line near the bottom of the case. I tried scrubbing off to ensure it wasn't dirt or grease - no go. Also ran a finger nail and knife across to feel for cracking - feels flat. Is there a such thing as a top layer cracking, as in the brass underneath those marks is still fully okay and its a showing sign of impending cracking. Or is it strictly cosmetic https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6FBR7HgucLI/Tw-rk-EIGlI/AAAAAAAAAxU/xysopqo43Oo/s800/11111111111111111.jpg https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-raAb-dVxsVk/Tw-rj4hz6yI/AAAAAAAAAw8/BV4t135rtgU/s800/222222222222.jpg https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ebfWSujarsE/Tw-rky5qdaI/AAAAAAAAAxY/GFJIEFwwMaY/s800/55555555555555555555555.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-33yc55pHh0E/Tw-rkGSvMXI/AAAAAAAAAxA/T5zgjX8ozIc/s800/3333333333333.jpg

*ceman2 said: Brass can get hard, but I am wondering if your chambers are not oversized. Do you have a way to measure the inside dia of your chambers and compare to an unfired round. You would have to google 38 s&w and see if you can find SAMMI specs for chamber dimensions to see if yours are inside the tolerances. Maybe someone else has other ideas. Also did the splits etc happen in 1 chamber or the same in all chambers?

*valonthas said: Brass can get hard, but I am wondering if your chambers are not oversized. Do you have a way to measure the inside dia of your chambers and compare to an unfired round. You would have to google 38 s&w and see if you can find SAMMI specs for chamber dimensions to see if yours are inside the tolerances. Maybe someone else has other ideas. Also did the splits etc happen in 1 chamber or the same in all chambers? I found no pattern or correlation between particular chambers producing certain effects, it was quite random I will find a caliper and take some measurements

s*skgunowner101 said: Those casings certainly do look strange to me.....sort of pot bellied. :confused: I get a ring around the case above the rim like in your bottom picture, but it scrubs off easily...either carbon or beeswax type crud. It's exactly matched up with the inside of the extractor star.

d*agle2008 said: maybe the blank company dont want you to use the brass to reload lol i now its funny but its business

*TOM said: Pure speculation, but Dominion ammo hasn't been made in years, meaning this stuff is old. Brass won't normally go bad just sitting on the shelf. An exception is if it is in the presence of certain substances. Mercury is high on the list. The old mecuric primers used to cause splits very similar to what you are seeing but they haven't been made, AFAIK, since the 1800s. Any idea how the ammo was stored?

*l-Sway said: I am surprised at these blanks, as I believe that all blanks have been put up with a rose crimp. I have seen WW II .303 with these, and all of the starter blanks, such as for .32, have rose crimps. It is likely that these were homemade blanks, and if that is the case there is no way of knowing the history of the cases. I have a similar revolver, and I use a lot of old Dominion cases and I don't have the problems you are showing. The other problem would appear to be chambers that are bulged, which results in bulges brass. It is possible that the revolver you purchased was overloaded by someone at some point, resulting in the bulged chambers and the brass that you have. I have loaded my old .38 S&W Dominion cases several times, as well as some old WW II.380 cases (same cartridge) without any of the case loss you have.

h*rseman2 said: Blanks for commercial use has a wad over the powder. They are made for effect. it is my understanding brass from blanks should not be reloaded. My grandfathers Ivor Johnson 5 shot hammerless had "Ice Box Accuracy" - at 7 yards you could hit an ice box every time.

m*ynard said: The rings on the case look like cutter marks to me. Like they were turn down on a lathe.

d*lta1 said: The rings on the case look like cutter marks to me. Like they were turn down on a lathe. If the brass was turned down, I would be measuring the chambers and the unfired rounds. Looks as though the unfired are undersized and when bumping up to chamber size are splitting.